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At 1 Stop Salon, we believe the proper way to choose a shear is to
take that complicated decision and break it into smaller,
less complex choices:
Choose
a blade that
will give you the performance you need.
Select
a handle that will give
you comfort, and fit your style of cutting.
Evaluate
tension systems in
light of what you can afford.
Pick
a length based on the techniques you use.
Then
you only need to consider shears that offer the combination
of features you have determined you need. This is the intelligent
way to find the right shear. Although we make many models,
by applying this formula, you can narrow down your choice
to only one or two.
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Blade
Designs
There
are only two types of shear blades
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Convex
Edge
State of the art,
smoother cutting blade. A must for slide cutting.
These are harder to make and therefore are more expensive,
but worth it. All our shears feature a convex edge!
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Beveled
Edge
The oldest blade design. Can cut well, but
requires more force than the convex blade and can't be used
for advanced techniques like "slide-cutting". We don't even
offer a shear with a beveled edge! |
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Handle
Designs
There
are only three general types of shear handle designs
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Opposing
Grip
The
oldest design, still good for stylists who cut with the
middle finger and thumb.
Example:
Opposing
Grip shears
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Offset
Grip
A
newer handle design for stylists who use the ring
finger to hold the shear. The shorter thumb handle
reduces over-extention of the thumb. This design
allows you to cut with a more open hand, however,
it is still necessary to elevate your elbow.
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Crane
Grip
This modern and ergonomically healthy design
offers the most benefits. It is offset to open the hand
and angled to drop the elbow position. This design relieves
stress on both the shoulder and wrist for stylists who use
the classic palm-to-palm cutting technique.
Example:
Crane
Grip |
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Stopper
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A
stopper (sometimes called a silencer) quiets the
shears by keeping the handles from metal to metal
contact.
It also
softens
the
feel of
the cut. |
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Teflon
Ride
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The
key wear point on a shear is the ride area in the pivot.
Teflon channels eliminate the metal to metal wear creating
the smoothest most durable action possible.
Example:
ADV, APEX,
EPIC, EZE |
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Ball
Bearing Systems
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Ball
Bearing Pivot System™
A
sealed ring of ball bearings stabilizes the pivot action.
Like those found in precision industrial machines, this
bearing system is capable of withstanding years of constant
professional use. You'll appreciate the incredible smoothness
of this system.
Example:
APEX, EVO |
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Ball
Bearing Rotating Thumb™
A
sealed ring of ball bearings is recessed into the handle.
This system provides smoother thumb rotation than any other
shear. It also provides industrial strength durability.
Example:
APEX, EVO |
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Tension
Systems
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Coin
Adjustable
Tension
screw can be adjusted with a coin.
Example:
Sensei Lite, Fuji
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Leaf
Spring Tension System™
Our
Leaf Spring Tension System offers more than just convenience,
it actually extends the life of the shear by stabilizing
the blade over a wider area.
Example: RSC,
GSC, EZE
and many more!! |
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Metals shown
here in order of preference:
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Cobalt/Molybdenum
Alloy
Cobalt
Hardness combined with Molybdenum toughness for high strength
and maximum durability. It just doesn't get any better than
this!
Example:
APEX, ZYGO,
EVO |
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Molybdenum
Alloy
A strong
and flexible alloy. If properly hardened it can be as hard
as cobalt alloys, but still maintains malleability.
Example:
Flux, GSC,
ADV and many more!! |
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Triple
Tempered 440 Stainless Steel
Cryogenic
tempering brings this stainless material to the highest
level of durability.
Example:
Atom, NEO,
O2 and many more!! |
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Cobalt
Alloy
Cobalt
is hard but very brittle, unless combined with Molybdenum.
It chips and nicks easily, and cannot be adjusted after
multiple sharpenings.
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Shaping &
Tempering
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Casting
Liquid Metal is poured into a mold. If properly hardened,
it can be durable, but will not hold the edge as long as
a forged shear. |
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Drop
Forging
A weighted mold is dropped on a hot bar of steel.
The alloy is pounded into a desired shape which makes the
metal more dense. The blade holds an edge longer and is more
malleable. |
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Cryogenic
Tempering
The temperature
of the steel is reduced to -300°F. This
pulls the randomly spaced steel molecules into a tightly
compacted
form. The steel is then slowly returned to room temperature.
The steel molecules relax and separate into an evenly spaced,
uniformed structure, increasing strength and durability. |
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Length
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Many people
are under the misconception that the length of their
shear should be governed by the size of their hand.
In reality, you should really think about the techniques
you are doing to determine the best shear for that
technique. When you are precision cutting hair that
is held between your fingers, you may not need a blade
that is any longer then the distance from the tip of
your finger to the 2nd knuckle. The reality is that
this type of cutting is only one element of todays technique.
Below are techniques that are easier to do with longer
blades:
Cutting Bob lines: The hair is combed
down against the neckline. A longer blade allows you
to make fewer cuts to connect the line all the way across.
It makes for a cleaner bob.
Cutting on the skin: Same thing, as
above, you can cut longer sections and get cleaner looks.
Also, the crane handle helps when cutting on the skin
because it lifts the hand away from the client’s
body.
Scissor over comb: The comb is picking
up a wider section than your fingers, a longer blade
allows you to cut that cleanly without the hair falling
out of the comb. That is why most barbers use long blades.
Slide cutting: When you slide cut with
a short blade, your hand moves though the section you
just cut due to it being so close to the blades. Then
you have to comb it again to see what you have accomplished.
With a longer blade you can slide your blades into the
hair and slide cut without messing up your work with
your hand.
Cutting around the face: With a short
blade your hand is right in the clients face and the
finger rest can actually get near their eye. A longer
blade allows you to cut with your hand back away from
the clients face, you can see better what you are doing
and the client is more comfortable.
Experience
the advantages of the longer blade based on the techniques
above and you will be glad you moved up in length. You
will also save several minutes per cut which is the
other benefit of longer blades.
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